Saturday, February 8, 2014

Musings on Cultural Heritage: America and Russia

Thanks to friend, Hillary Zeiss, whom I met on my semester abroad in Russia, for writing a post about Russia. I encourage you all to read it, it is quite insightful and it allowed me to insert some of my own musings on the topic, which you will find below the link. My words might make more sense if you read her post first, but do as you will.

On Russia's Homophobic Legislature, Demography, and That Time I Lived with Fascists

I have said for quite a while that many people in America still have anti-Russian sentiments left over from the Cold War and that these sentiments flood our airwaves and thus, anti-Russian sentiment still pervades. But it is more than just that, the post above demonstrates a quality that Americans seem to have really perpetuates the anti-Russian sentiment that I see run rampant throughout the States. It goes something like this: America has prided itself on the idea that we were a nation conceived in liberty, conceived in the idea that everyone is created equal, that democracy is the only true and just path, and perhaps also incorrectly conceived as a nation founded on Judeo-Christian principles. (A side note, the simplest explanation as to why Communism, especially Russian Communism, became the dreaded enemy was because the Soviets had proclaimed themselves as godless). The fact that America has been able to exist as a society, as a country, for over two hundred years has given Americans a sense of entitlement, a sense that because we have been successful, our way must be the only way to live properly and perhaps the only way to truly run a government.

What many Americans often fail to realize, and this is rooted in America's own cultural heritage of individual liberty and self-determination, is that every country has their own cultural values. America's sense of individualism, of liberty, and of self-determination is so profound that they fail to see another culture's values and how those cultural values work for that particular country. Instead, when Americans see the difference, they do not see it necessarily as a good thing, they see it as the wrong thing or lesser-than the American way of thinking. But here is something simple: American values work for America but that does not mean that they will work, and most likely will not work, for other countries, whether that country be Russia or Iran or Iraq. Perhaps you can discuss ideas and concepts, but they must be adopted and utilized in ways that are appropriate for a particular country's culture and attitude. After the Soviet Union collapsed and Russia emerged as a new nation, they modeled their government very similarly to the American model of democracy and this experiment failed for them - corruption, government gridlock, and significant economic troubles ensued. Perhaps too simply put, Russia tends to have a far more collectivist attitude than America does, an attitude that happiness derives from security/safety and not from democracy. If you think about Russia of the 1990s and Russia during the early 1920s of Civil War, this makes sense. Does this mean Russians advocate and want totalitarianism? Certainly not. Now, in my opinion, democracy and freedom do not mean the same thing. Democracy is a form of government where regular citizens have the right to elect their leaders;  freedom is to act, speak, and think without hindrance or constraint (according to the Oxford Dictionary). When Putin stepped onto the scene in 1999/2000, he brought Russia back from the brink, he brought back economic security, he brought stability back in government. Of course, not everything Putin has done has been good, but how can Americans truly judge the Russians fairly while failing to acknowledge their own problems and faults. American government is certainly not perfect.

America has many, many faults just like every and any nation on this earth. Are there things of which America can be proud? Yes, of course. Are there things of which America should feel ashamed? Yes, certainly. I am an American and I love my country; I love America's founding principles of equality and opportunity, but I am not going to be a hypocrite. I refuse to be one. I will acknowledge that America has had very great moments and very dark moments. I will acknowledge that America does not have all the answers. I will acknowledge that America is not the be all and end all of perfection, righteousness, and morality where every other nation can please take a seat. This is a dangerous and isolating way to think. What works for Americans will not work in the same way for Russians or for Iraqis or for Iranians. America should share her ideas and advocate for freedom, but she should not impose. What Americans should do instead is to listen, to think critically, to understand, and to humble themselves. There is something to be learned from everyone. The way we, as Americans, as humans, can make a positive difference in this world is to learn and to listen, not to force and not to impose and not to judge without understanding, but to never stop learning more. 

Wednesday, February 5, 2014

Taking in Turkey: A Week in Istanbul

I figured that I better update you all on my trip to Istanbul, Turkey before the details recede into my memory and I can no longer remember them. I do not think that that has happened yet.

I had known for months that I had wanted to go to Turkey over winter break, but it was not until three or four days before that I actually booked my plane ticket and hotel. It was a solo trip - I would be on my own for about a week, doing what I wanted, when I wanted, at the pace I wanted. I find that I like traveling by myself as much as I like traveling with others.

The Friday flight from Batumi to Istanbul was only two hours and the visa to Turkey only twenty dollars.

Early on Saturday morning, I was awoken by the Ezan, the Islamic Call to Prayer. It was really cool to hear it live - I had spent a decent amount of time during my undergrad learning about the Middle East and Islam, so it was wonderful to hear it for myself - even at that early hour. My hotel was just steps from the gorgeous Blue Mosque and five minutes from the Hagia Sophia. On Saturday, when I finally did wake up, I was greeted to brilliant blue skies and mild January temperatures. After breakfast, I decide to go out and explore the Sultanahmet neighborhood. I visited the Little Hagia Sophia Mosque; I walked around the grounds of the Blue Mosque (I would not see the interior until several nights later); explored the Hagia Sophia, which was stunning; and got lost amongst the dizzying array of shops in the Grand Bazaar. While at the Grand Bazaar, I ended up splurging on a hand-stitched Turkish scarf and was propositioned by at least three Turkish men trying to sell me carpets. They served me tea, engaged in lengthy conversation, and one man was so desperate that he tried to sell me a $400 carpet for $80. I would have bought it had I the space for it and also had not spent way more than I had intended on the scarf. He told me that I broke his heart…
Inside the Blue Mosque

Th Blue Mosque


Hagia Sophia

Hagia Sophia 

Inside the Hagia Sophia

Inside the Hagia Sophia
The Grand Bazaar
Inside the Grand Bazaar


A funny anecdote (I think):
- Turkish men have no qualms with approaching foreigners and asking where they are from, Turkish men are exceedingly friendly and forward. I respond to this question with, of course, "America…Chicago." To which they respond, "Ohhhh….America! I have a friend in Alabama" or "Chicago? I have a friend who lives on 3274 Devon Avenue" or something of that sort.

That night, it was nice enough to have dinner outside! It was only in the fifties, but I was sheltered and had a heated seat - I was not at all uncomfortable. Since I was alone, I never stayed out very late while in Istanbul, not that that is really my thing, so after dinner I headed back to my hotel (and was propositioned yet again to buy a carpet).

Sunday, I awoke to yet another beautiful blue sky. I walked around for a bit before taking a boat tour of Istanbul's Golden Horne and Bosphorus Strait! It was a wonderful day to take a boat ride and I was able to see a lot of the city that way. Istanbul is the only city in the world to straddle two continents - Europe on one side and Asia on the other. Most of Turkey lies in Asia. It is interesting to be living in Georgia, which is considered, at least politically, as part of Europe, but to be east of Turkey. The border between Georgia and Turkey is yet another continental split.

The Bosphorus Bridge splitting Europe and Asia

Çiragan Palace

Many mosques dot Istanbul's skyline.

Monday was just as beautiful as Saturday and Sunday had been and I took this day to explore Istanbul's Topkapi Palace. This palace was the primary residence of Ottoman sultans for nearly four hundred years. It is now a major museum, boasting holy relics from the Islamic world, as well as gifts from around the world presented to sultans of the Ottoman Empire. It is also a UNESCO World Heritage Site. What is interesting about this palace is that, unlike other palaces, Topkapi does not exceed two stories and instead consists of courtyards and spread-out buildings, rich in Ottoman architecture. It was built this way to symbolize Islamic modesty.

Inside Topkapi Palace - a classic example of Ottoman architecture

Ottoman design in Topkapi Palace.


That night, I ate at a place called Montana Restaurant…seriously, how could I not?

Tuesday, I descended into the Basilica Cistern, which built in the Sixth Century during the Byzantine Empire. Later, I explored Sultanahmet's Golden Horn neighborhood, strolling through streets line with sweet shops and cafes - I had a lengthy discussion with a young Syrian man over tea in a sweet shop. I also visited the Egyptian Spice Bazaar and stocked up on teas, spices, and sweets. That night, I had the best dinner by far during my stay in Istanbul - lamb kebabs in an assortment of Middle Eastern spices. I was also served complimentary Turkish apple tea, which was delicious. I seriously cannot say no to tea.


Turkish Teas and Spices at the Egyptian Bazaar



Wednesday, I crossed over the Galata Bridge and wondered around "New Istanbul." I had the most delicious, fresh squeezed pomegranate juice that I have ever tasted in my life and that is not a joke. I also climbed Galata Tower and had panoramic views of Istanbul. From this vantage point, I realized just how massive Istanbul was - it stretched out on every horizon save the Sea of Marmara. I am told that Istanbul is the third largest city in the world with a population living within city limits. During my time there, I saw only a fraction of it. As evening rolled in, I was able to see why the Golden Horne was called that - as the sun dipped, the skyline and inlet glittered a lush golden warmth - Mosques glinted on the horizon and the water sparkled like a jewel. It was beautiful.

Galata Tower

Istanbul's Golden Horn.



Thursday, my last day in Istanbul, I decided to get out of the din of the city and experience a slower-paced Turkey. I signed up for a tour of Princes' Islands where I was able to take a boat across the Sea of Marmara, enjoy a horse-and-carriage ride, eat a seaside lunch, and wonder around the quiet-laid back streets. There are no cars allowed on the island, so the choice of transport is either carriage, bike, or foot - thus allowing for fresh, clean sea air. Perhaps one of the most interesting aspects of this excursion was that a Russian woman and her granddaughter had signed up for it thinking they were getting a tour in Russian. The tour guide kept apologizing to them, saying in English, "Sorry, I don't speak your language." I stepped up and began translating, as best I could, the tour for them. We ended up wandering around and eating lunch together, speaking exclusively in Russian. I was surprised by just how many Russian tourists I saw while in Istanbul.

Horse carriage on Princes' Island

Home on Princes' Island

Princes' Island on the Sea of Marmara


Thursday, it was back to Georgia!